Japanese toilets almost deserved a post of their own, probably not quite where you expected me to start. Each model will flush and wash your bum in a variety of ways. Some have heated seats, others have a warm air dryer – and then there are those with both. Some flush as you sit on the seat and flush again when you stand up. In public toilets, the sound of running water and bird song may play to protect your modesty. In fact it’s quite a shock to sit on a cold toilet seat and have to flush yourself! Every subway station has a public toilet, as do some subway trains. All are free to use, clean and well stocked with hand soap and toilet paper. This is how the world should run!

Hotel rooms are well stocked with disposable toothbrushes and toothpaste, hairbrush and razor. Most business hotels provide laundered nightclothes as I found out in Tokyo and Kanazawa.
After every holiday, and much to their irritation, I always ask John and Matt ‘what did you enjoy the most?’. I often get a sigh and comments along the lines of ‘there’s been so much and it’s all so different, you can’t expect us to choose’. I do expect them to choose, because for me there is always a highlight. Well, I might have to treat them more kindly – there is too much for me to choose from. Hiroshima fed the soul and moved me to tears, the trees at Kenrokuen were breathtaking, the Earthquake museum an unexpected joy. Matt was very clear and it wasn’t meeting me at Shibuya. He’d come for the racing and that had been what he’d enjoyed the most.
I overpacked and the large, heavy suitcase has caused me most anxiety while away. I packed in a rush, a lot of clothes are unworn and most hotels had laundry rooms. The best item I packed? The disposable poncho! Lightweight, took up no room and saved the day in Okayama. Perhaps the poncho should be my highlight?

I would love to come back if only to cycle the Kibi Plain and perhaps Okayama would live up to its welcome sign.
I didn’t think I’d want to return to Tokyo but had such a lovely day yesterday and there must be so much more to explore away from the main sights and streets. Osaka wouldn’t be on my return list when Kyoto offers so much more and they are so close together.
Reading back through the blog, there are so many stories left unsaid so be prepared to be bored silly now I’m home. This has been the most amazing adventure and I’m so grateful to Matt for his throwaway comment and John’s encouragement.
