Both figuratively and literally.
Another early start to be at Arashiyama Bamboo Forest ahead of the masses. We got off the train at 8:15 to walk up through the town and that wasn’t nearly early enough to beat the crowds. The atmosphere and light were magical, it was a shame about all the people.
The Togetsukyo Bridge, over the Katsura River, is another tourist magnet in Arashiyama, so we avoided that. However the view from Arashiyama Park, along the river was lovely.
Having got up early to travel out of the city, we felt we ought to embrace the day a bit more positively, rather than grump about the crowds, so the Buddhist Tenryu-ji Temple (Temple of the Heavenly Dragon) was our chosen stop. Still only 9:30 and it was heaving with tour groups.
Established in 1339, it has been ravaged by fire eight times. The current buildings have survived since 1912, with some as old as 1868. Walking through the Temple, over the tatami mats, with only our socks on was such a peaceful experience. There was a warmth that no squawky, inconsiderate, instagramming numpty could spoil.
The landscape garden, however, is one of the oldest in Japan and designed, in the fourteenth century, to make the most of the backdrop of Mount Arashiyama. It was beautiful and, again, felt so serene when there was a gap in the crowds.
After a tortuous train ride back into the city (Matt has declared he’s not getting on another bus) the Kiyomizu-dera Buddhist Temple was next. It sits on the side of Mount Ottawa with far reaching views across the city. It was a steep climb up and the biggest crowds we’ve encountered anywhere. At one point we were banning all tourists, except us, and schoolchildren. It is renowned for the stage that juts out over the cliff.
Our walk back down took us through the Otani cemetery, one of the largest Buddhist graveyards in the city
One more Temple, Sanjusangen-do with its hall of 1001 statues, this was amazing. All of the statues (Kannon), guarding the deities, are different. The statues are lacquered wood, arms and heads were carved independently before they were assembled the hall is 120m long and specially constructed to ensure. Photos were forbidden, it was quite a sight and worth an internet search. Photos were allowed in the garden and it was fascinating to watch a gardener carefully taking needles out of a perfect looking tree and catching them in the umbrella.
We stopped for lunch in the cafe at the Kyoto National Museum, at which point I officially gave up and wandered back to the hotel. Knees and hips have quite a strong opinion on all the ascents and descents we’ve done over the last couple of days. The hotel has a hot bath, not quite onsen, but the strict etiquette still applies – look it up. This afternoon I ventured in. I wasn’t there for long, it was too bloody hot but it eased my knees and I feel very brave for overcoming my embarrassment,
Tonight’s dinner? We cheated and went to an Italian restaurant recommended by Matt’s friend. Rigoletto Smoke and Grill was very stylish and tucked away in a little street on the outskirts of Gion. We used a knife and fork!
I’m tired, it’s been a long few days so apologies for any gobbledygook. Proofreading is out the window today. Off to Kanazawa tomorrow so I get a lie in, yippee
